Pura Ulan Batur, Lake Bedegul
The port of Buleleng, situated at the mouth of river of the same name, was for many years the centre of Dutch influence in Bali. Stone warehouses on the waterfront handle cargo from as far away as Singapore and Hong Kong, and inter-island vessels anchor off-shore. Walking along the shore one can imagine the former bustling entrepot. The reality is that the old anchorage has long silted up, and, except for the wet season, the river is shallow and full of reeds and rubbish.
Singaraja is one km away from the coast in the cooler suburbs towards Bedugul. The government offices are on the corner of Jalan Veteran and Jalan Ngurah Rai, and all road distances in north Bali are measured from this point. Opposite is the Tourist Information Centre. 200 metres away is the Gedong Kertya Historical Library which is in the compound of the former royal palace, and the Sasana Budaya Art Centre. Nearby on Jalan Gajah Mada, which leads from the Post Office towards Denpasar and Bedugul are the royal temples; Pura Dalem and Pura Desa Bale Agung.
The easiest way to get to Lovina from Singaraja or Buleleng is by bemo from the Banyuasri Bus Terminal. If you arrive from Kintamani or Karangasem you have to transfer to Jalan Ahmed Yani or Banyuasri itself. Keep an eye on the km posts for the distance back to Singaraja.
Things to do in Singaraja
Shopping in Singaraja
Anyar Market Jln Diponegoro
Diponegoro Shopping Centre Jln Diponegoro
Banyusari Market Jln Ahmed Yani
Buleleng Market Jln Gajah Mada
Places of Interest in Singaraja
Gedong Tirta Historical Library Jln Veteran
Sasana Budaya Art Centre Jln Veteran
Bratan Gold/Silver Village Jln Bedugul
Buleleng Harbour Jln Surapati
Temples in Singaraja
Pura Segera Jln Surapati
Pura Desa Bale Agung Jln Gajah Mada
Pura Dalem Jln Gajah Mada
To The West of Lovina
Banjar Hot Springs
The hot springs include a swimming pool and showers, restaurant and bar. The source of the hot water for the pool is behind the restaurant. Another smaller hot spring is 100 metres upstream from the main pool. Here, the rock has been cut away to form a small bath with the hot water gushing from a spout overhead. Alternate between a quick dip in the river and a long soak in the pool. The best time to visit the hot springs is in the cool of the afternoon or early evening.
This hillside monastery is reached by turning left at the intersection in the middle of Banjar market. Then follow the road upwards and to the right for 2-3 km.
At the 14.5 km mark, follow a dirt road about 500 metres to the weir. Further upstream is a waterfall in the wet season. Not for swimming in the Dry.
This is a typical North Balinese village 1km to the west of Banjar market. The name means ‘hot river’. The village temple is a good place to witness Balinese culture. The elders of the temple are friendly.
Situated 5 km towards Gilimanuk from Lovina. Typical of the towns in north Bali which have been populated by Javanese migrants. Quite dusty and sterile but an interesting comparison if you don’t plan to cross the strait to Java.
Traditional harbour for luggers trading with Kalimantan. 20 km west of Kalibukbuk.
Monkey forest and old temple 45 km to the west of Lovina on the way to Gilimanuk. The temple is 2 km off the main road on a cliff above the beach. Tours are organised from Lovina to attend ceremonies.
Possibly the best place for scuba diving and snorkeling in Bali. Part of the Teluk Terima National Aquatic Park. A permit from the ranger on Bali is needed to enter. Boats to Menjangan Island leave from Teluk Terima Harbour. Very basic accommodation is available 5 km from the main road opposite the island. Take your own diving gear with you. Situated 50 km west of Kalibukbuk or 20 km before Gilimanuk.
To The East of Lovina
North Bali between Singaraja and Air Sanih is more similar in looks to Java than Bali. The town of Kubutambahan, 11 km east of Singaraja, was once the centre of a great kingdom. A number of large temples are reminders of the former glory. They are:
- Pura Maduwe Karang at Kubutambahan is the biggest temple in north Bali. Nearby on the corner of the Kintamani road is Pura Bale Agung and 200m away is Pura Dalem.
- Pura Beji at Sangsit is 7 km from Singaraja. It is dedicated to the rice crop.
- Pura Jagaraja is on the road into the hills from Sangsit.
- At Sawan is a village of gong-smiths.
- Pura Desa at Tamblang is 5 km from Kubutambahan.
- Pura Ponjok Batu is a smaller temple 10 km from Kubutambahan on a cliff over the sea where the Karangasem road leaves the coast.
- Air Sanih
As well as temples, this area offers beautiful coastal views near the Air Sanih spring pools. The pools are fed by fresh spring water. There are bungalows and a restaurant in the complex. For 3km past Air Sanih the road overhangs the cliff, past sandy coves that shelter fishing boats. The resort is 15km from Singaraja
To The South of Lovina
Git Git Waterfall
Located 5 km from Singaraja on the road to Bedugul. Walk 1 km through the ricefields.
Bedugul and Lake Bratan
There is an orchid market and Botanical Gardens at Bedugul which was established in 1959. The Pura Ulu Danu Bratan (pictured above) was flooded by the rising level of the lake in the 1970’s but has since been reclaimed. The lake is good for water-skiing and the Bali Handara golf club is nearby at Panca Sari. There is budget accommodation around the lake, bungalows in the forest, a hotel on the edge of the escarpment 2km towards Denpasar and luxury villas at Bali Handara. The area can be very cold at night.
Pupuan Mountain Resort
Located 25 km from Kalibukbuk on the road that leaves the coast at Seririt heading towards Denpasar.
Trekking Near Lovina
Each of these treks take you into the high country behind Lovina where you have fantastic views over the coast. They are all in loop form. If you get tired or dusk falls, head back the way you came rather than continuing on.
Kayu Putih to Melaka Trek 2-3 hours
Take bitumen road opposite the Ayodya Hotel at km 10.5 into the hills. At Desa Kayu Putih follow road to the right/west until you meet another road heading downhill back to the coast.
Banyuseri & Pendawa Trek 8-10 hours
Follow the main road through Banjar market into the hills. Quite a steep climb to Banyuseri village at the 5km post. Stop for refreshments at a small warung at the 4 km peg before the final climb to the plateau. Continuing through the ricefields the road climbs towards your left and is passable only to off-road vehicles for the next 5 km. The road skirts the ridge and emerges at the village of Banjar Tegeha. Public transportation back to Banjar exists in the form of “ojak” (lift on motor bike) back to Banjar market. If there is a local truck going down, hitch a ride! Stop off at the Buddhist Wihara on the way down.
Should you wish to do the 22 km trek in the opposite direction, turn left at the cross-road in Banjar market. The road climbs steeply for 2 km to the Buddhist Wihara, and then 7 km to Desa Pedawa, where the bitumen road ends. Turn right at the T-Junction in Desa Pedawa, then the right fork, past the public bathing place and follow the track 5 km to Desa Banyuseri on the plateau. From here descend to Banjar.
Whichever way you go, call in for a soothing soak in the hot springs on the way back.
Lake Tamblingan and Munduk Waterfall Trek 2-3 days
A much longer trek that goes in a similar but longer arc. Start at the town of Pengastulan 12 km west of Kalibukbuk. Take the road heading south to Pupuan, Antosari and Denpasar. Stop at Mayong approximately 10 km into the mountains and head left/east towards Goblek and Munduk. If you turn left/north towards Kayuputih it is possible to get back to Banjar/Lovina. At the villages of Goblek and Munduk you can find places to eat and stay, such as Adila Warung and Homestay at Munduk. After Munduk village you will come to the Munduk Waterfall/ Air Terjun Munduk carpark. Nearby is also Melanting Waterfal / Air Terjun Melanting.
During the rainy season ( December to March) check whether it is raining in the mountains (or Ubud) before you leave because it rarely rains at Lovina. The road skirts the old crater rim with views over Lake Tamblingan and Lake Buyan. The road meets the Denpasar-Singaraja road 10 km north of Bedugul and Lake Bratan, or 20 km from Singaraja.