Balinese Painting In Ubud
Most of the original Balinese painters came from Ubud. In the 1970s Ubud was at the centre of Balinese painting. The so-called “young artists” follow traditional and modern styles, and their paintings are much cheaper than those by the Masters.
To get an idea of Balinese art and wood carving before buying, visit the Art Gallery “Puri Lukisan Ratna Warta”. The gallery consists of three buildings set in beautiful gardens and rice fields near the centre of Ubud. Two house permanent exhibitions, and one is run by the local Painters Co-operative. The works at the Co-operative hall are for sale, and prices are negotiable. Each month a different local group shows their work, and each painter can show only one painting.
However, if you like a particular painter’s style, make a note of his name and village and track him down later. The biggest group is from the village of Padangtegal which is between Ubud proper and the monkey forest. Museum Puri Lukisan was set up with money donated by Europeans and a local prince.
At Lempad’s house on Jalan Raya, his grandsons carry on the tradition and put out some good work. Lempad, who died in 1978 aged 97, had a very distinctive sketching style. Some of his sketches are on show at his house.
Jalan Monkey Forest has many galleries with reasonably priced traditional and modern art. One of the modern forms is the Japanese-influenced screens. There are also quite a few galleries on the main street, some of which do not offer value for money.
Balinese Dance and Drama in Ubud
The growth of tourism in Ubud has promoted a resurgence of local interest in studying painting, dance and drama. As a result, it is now possible to watch cultural performances each night at one of the local community centres. As well as these arranged shows, which consist of a medley of dances normally restricted to special religious occasions, the traditional arts of dance and drama with gamelan music still plays an integral part of any religious holiday or ceremony.
Traditional Dance Venues in Ubud
Gabor Jln Monkey Forest, Ubud Kelod
Legong Opp. Mandala, Jln Cok Gede Rai, Peliatan
Legong Puri Saren, Jln Raya, Ubud
Legong Banjar Kawan, Jln Raya, Teges
Rajapala Menara Hotel, Jln Raya, Ubud
Wayang Kulit Oka Kartini Bungalows, Jln Raya Ubud, Terbesaya (Wed 8pm)
Temples in Ubud
‘Pura’ means temple in Balinese, and each village has at least three. You may not enter without a sash around your waist and your knees covered. The best in Ubud are :
Pura Campuan Under bridge, Campuan
Pura Dalem Jln Raya, Ubud
Pura Desa Jln Kajeng. Ubud
Pura Sakenan Jln Raya, Ubud
Pura Merajan Jln Suweta, Ubud
Pura Batur Sari Jln Suweta, Ubud
Pura Dalam Past Monkey Forest, Padangtegal
Pura Dadya Pasek Gelgel Jln Cok Gede Rai, Terbesaya
SHOPPING IN UBUD
Antiques and Tribal Art
Kerta Antiques Jln Monkey Forest, Ubud
Rena Antiques Jln Monkey Forest, Ubud
Suwasta Antiques Jln Cok Cede Rai, Terbesaya
Seni Warna Jln Cok Cede Rai, Terbesaya
Mirah Silver Jln Raya, Ubud
Purpa Silver Jln Raya. Ubud
Purpa Gallery Jln Monkey Forest. Padangtegal
Puta Silver Jln Monkey Forest, Ubud Kelod
I Made Mawa Past Monkey Forest Temple, Padangtegal
Sudarma Jln Monkey Forest, Padangtegal
Galleries and Studios
Adipat Soeryo Jln Raya, Ubud
Better Studio Jln Cok Gede Rai, Terbesaya
Cameng Gallery Jln Cok Gede Rai, Terbesaya
Gunung Sari Jln Cok Gede Rai, Terbesaya
Lempad’s House Jln Raya, Ubud
Mahardhika Jln Monkey Forest, Padangtegal
Mawar Studio Kampung Aman, Ubud
Miasa Studio Jln Cok Gede Rai, Terbesaya
Mulyono Painter Jln Monkey Forest, Ubud Kelod
Munut Gallery Jln Cok Gede Rai, Terbesaya
Museum Neka Jln Raya. Campuan Kaja
Neka Gallery Jln Cok Gede Rai, Terbesaya
Nirwana behind Nomads, Padangtegal
I Nyoman Gallery Jln Raya. Ubud
Oka Kartini Jln Cok Gede Rai, Terbesaya
Pratono Gallery Jln Raya. Ubud
Puri Lukisan Jln Raya. Ubud
Realistic Jln Raya. Ubud
Tunggeh Jln Raya Padangtegal
Dolik Jln Cok Gede Rai, Terbesaya
Made Tangup behind Nomads, Padangtegal
Putu Gati Jln Raya. Ubud
I Wayan Kandha Old Denpasar Rd. Padangtegal
Warsa Jln Cok Gede Rai, Terbesaya
Places to Visit near Ubud
The atmosphere of Peliatan is reminiscent of Ubud in the early 1980’s. Just a few places to stay, not many shops or hawkers, limited Western food outlets, and a colony of artists nearby. Peliatan is 2km on the Denpasar side of Ubud, so it is easy to travel or walk between the two towns. Peliatan was one of the old kingdoms of Bali.
There are plenty of wood carvers’ and other artisans’ shops in Peliatan. In Peliatan proper there are a few places to eat, and half-way to Ubud at Terbesaya there are good warungs and the Ubud Raya Coffee Shop which serves Japanese and Western food.
Jero Arso Jln Cok Gede Rai
Mandala Coffee Shop Jln Cok Gede Rai
Warung Jawa Mini Jln Cok Gede Rai, Teges
Warung Nasi Jln Cok Gede Rai, Terbesaya
Art Galleries in Peliatan
Agung Rai Gallery Jln Cok Gede Rai
Rais Painter Jln Cok Gede Rai
Wood Carvers in Peliatan
M.D. Geriya Jln Cok Gede Rai
Jero Laba Jln Cok Gede Rai
Kerti Jln Cok Gede Rai
Murni Wood Jln Pengesokan, Teges
(Community of Artists)
Temples in Peliatan
Pura Panetaran Pande Jln Cok Gede Rai
Pura Merajan Jln Cok Gede Rai
Pura Desa Gede Jln Cok Gede Rai, Teges
Balinese Dance Venues in Peliatan
Legong Dance Mandala Jln Cok Gede Rai
Legong Dance Banjar Kawan Jln Raya Teges
Budget-Priced Places to Stay in Peliatan
Mandala Bungalows Jln Cok Gede Rai
Mudita Inn Jln Cok Gede Rai
Arsa Homestay Jln Cok Gede Rai
Bali Breeze Old Denpasar Rd, Peng.
Beringin off Jln Cok Gede Rai
Detri old Denpasar Rd, Peng.
Harja Jln Denpasar, Teges
Madra behind cinema, Teges
Mandala Homestay Jln Sumerta
Negara off Jln Cok Gede Rai
Oka old Denpasar Rd, Peng.
Pande Homestay Jln Cok Gede Rai
Putu Jln Pengesokan, Teges
Sari Bungalows behind cinema, Teges
This ancient site is named after a cave used for meditation by Buddhist monks near the Gajah River. It dates from around 1000 AD and was first mentioned in a royal chronicle of Kertagama in 1365. Like other sites in the area it has a Buddhist and Shivaist background. Beside the T-shaped cave there are three large water spouts and pools.
Follow the path down towards the river past a waterfall and fallen rock carvings. Goa Gajah is in a very tranquil setting only 4km from Ubud. If you are feeling energetic early in the morning it makes a nice walk through Peliatan, Teges and 2km of rice-fields. At Teges intersection take the road to Tampaksiring and Gianyar, not Denpasar. Stalls selling handicrafts and fruit at Goa Gajah can be a bit of a ripoff.
Not far from Goa Gajah, on the steep bank of a small river, is this 14th Century stone sculpture measuring 14 metres long and 3 metres high. The sculpture shows peasants at work, and is one of the oldest to deal with non-religious themes. To get there, take the next road to the right after Goa Gajah and follow it until it turns left at the school building. There you turn right and follow it to its end. Cross the ditch, through the rice paddies, cross another small stream and you are there.
One km from Goa Gajah and left at the intersection is the Purba Kala Archaeological Museum, also known as the Gedong Area. Built in 1960, it is a small but well laid-out museum with lines of sasophragus (stone coffins) in a garden setting. In the fields opposite the museum is the Buddhist Pura Kebo Edan (crazy buffalo temple) with a 3.6 metre statue of Dancing Bima. Another km up the road is the Pura Panataran Sasih temple at Pejeng where the famous gong was found.
This is an ancient Buddhist hermitage in the Pakerisan Valley near Desa Tegal-lingah village which is half-way between Goa Gajah and Gianyar.
The second largest town in Bali and a centre for weaving and textiles. Opposite the open field on the main street is the old palace. 4km from Gianyar on the road to Bangli is Pura Dalem Sidan temple which looks back over the ricefields to the coast. Another 1km up the road in the village is Pura Puseh.
Another former capital past Gianyar on the way to Lake Batur and Kintamani. The road from Gianyar climbs slowly as corn and oranges replace rice, and the air becomes cooler. The market street is a bit run-down, but Pura Kehen temple 2km out of town is a major attraction. Follow the road to Batur to the T-junction and turn right. The temple is 300 metres away. Artha Sastra Inn in the grounds of the former palace offers rooms with inside and outside bathrooms. One of the buildings in the private section is intricately carved and painted. There are many outstanding houses and smaller temples between the market and Pura Kehen. There is a waterfall 300 metres to the left of the T-junction. Bangli is 42km from Denpasar.